We’re packing our suitcases and exchanging rainy Newcastle clouds for a surprising glimpse of sunshine on our city break to Belfast…
Caroline Dask
Journalist at Luxe
It’s a Tuesday morning and I’m battling a middle-of-the-summer cold, getting ready for my upcoming trip to Belfast. While I’ve never been to Northern Ireland before, the itinerary in front of me suggests there’s plenty to see and do, so Lemsip in hand, walking shoes packed and I’m off.
I get to Newcastle Airport with plenty of time to spare and decide to stop for a quick Starbucks, before checking in my baggage. Flipping through my social media, I can see the holiday season is in full swing, as posts from all corners of the world flood my screen.
An hour goes by quickly and after dropping my suitcase off at baggage, I’m swiftly escorted through the fast-track security check. This process is quick, taking less than 10 minutes, giving me plenty of time to enjoy a delicious breakfast at Aster & Thyme.
My order? It’s Oak Smoked Salmon and Scrambled Eggs (£17.50) with a glass of Champagne (£14.29), because it’s always 5 pm at the airport, even if the clock has not yet reached noon.
My breakfast order arrives in no time and I devour it in what feels like seconds. Everything tastes incredibly fresh, my hunger is satisfied, and I’m ready to explore Belfast.
Day 1
Flight from Newcastle to Belfast
After a delicious breakfast, I’m hopping on an Aer Lingus flight, which takes me directly from Newcastle to Belfast City airport in less than an hour. My entertainment for the flight? The Handmaid’s Tale by Margaret Atwood, a book, which makes my already short 45-minute flight feel like a breeze.
We land smoothly and upon exiting the airplane, I’m pleasantly surprised by the appearance of sunshine. The taxi picks us up and we’re off to our home for the next couple of nights – the Grand Central Hotel.
Lay Your Head – Grand Central Hotel
Sitting in the taxi, looking outside the window, I feel as if I’m in a film, looking up at the skyscraper in front of me, trying to take in my surroundings. The hotel looks incredible from the outside, making me feel all giddy inside, just waiting to step foot in there.
The reception certainly does not disappoint, the sparkly chandeliers and the gold details add to the luxurious atmosphere inside. There’s a pop of purple next to the elevators, fresh violets and their sweet scent lingering in the lobby.
The check-in takes only a couple of minutes before I’m en route to my room. Pressing the button to the 22nd floor and opening the doors to my room – 2207 – I am in awe. The interior is the perfect mix of modern and cosy, with the best views of Belfast, including the magnificent City Hall. It has everything one might need, a king-size bed, a spacious shower, a bathtub and a mirror with LED lights, perfect alternative to daylight when getting ready in the morning.
Looking around the room, I notice a lovely personal note on the table, welcoming me in and wishing me a wonderful stay, along with a couple of cupcakes I can’t wait to tuck into. It’s the little thoughtful details like this that make the Grand Central Hotel stand out.
First Stop – Titanic Belfast
When I first had a glance at the itinerary, the Titanic museum was something I was extremely excited about. Belfast has an incredibly expansive history in shipbuilding, and it is here, just a short drive from the city centre, that she was born and set sail.
With six floors of interactive galleries, one could easily spend an entire day here. I’m sure some do, as looking around I see a lot of young families roaming around, learning all about the history not only of the Titanic but also of Belfast’s past in the production and exportation of linen, tobacco and rope as well as manufacturing of whiskey.
With two full hours dedicated to exploring the museum, I take my time to appreciate Belfast’s history and the tragedy of the Titanic. Walking visitors through Titanic’s interiors, launch day tickets, and personal stories of passengers, it’s an extremely tasteful and sensible gallery, honouring the lives lost and the aftermath of the disaster.
The highlight for me was the interactive simulation, taking me through all the floors of the ship. Standing there, surrounded by three screens, two from my left and right and one in front of me, it feels as though I’m there, on this iconic ship, moving through the grounds of it, up to the cabins, the luxurious dining hall, the corridors, the captain’s command deck and the front of the ship.
Time for Dinner…
After a bit of downtime back at the hotel and a chat with the lovely ladies, Chloe and Nicola, from Visit Belfast, we’re en route to the award-winning Taylor and Clay Grill, located at the Bullitt Hotel.
As we’re sitting down, I take a moment to soak in my surroundings. Cosy and casual atmosphere, a window seat, allowing opportunities for people-watching and the sun, setting in on just another lovely day in Belfast.
A quick glimpse at the menu suggests there are plenty of mouth-watering options to conclude my first day in Belfast, but first, drinks! It’s a glass of white for me and I’m starting with Chrispy Tenderstem, charred leak with roasted garlic and chilli oil (£9) and for the main, Half Free-Range Irish Chicken with garlic potatoes and béarnaise sauce (£22.50).
My food arrives and it certainly doesn’t disappoint. My Chrispy Tenderstem is simply heavenly and before I know it, my plate is empty. It’s crispy, and earthy with a pleasant hint of chilli, not too overpowering, which is perfect for someone like me, who doesn’t handle spicy food too well.
Amid pleasant conversation with my company for the night, my main arrives and it’s certainly a sight to be seen. Once I bite into my chicken, it simply melts in my mouth and the garlic wedges, paired with the béarnaise sauce, are delightful.
A Stop at The Famous Duke of York
Saying goodbye to the lovely staff at Taylor and Clay Grill, we decide to take a stroll through the city centre of Belfast. The Commercial Court is a famous street and a must-visit for any city breaker. Adorned with colourful hanging umbrellas, it’s full of local pubs and wineries, waiting to welcome customers in.
Not quite ready to say goodnight to Belfast just yet, we decide to sit down and have a drink at the Duke of York. It’s a traditional and charming bar, beloved by the locals. Looking around, I’m surprised to see it almost full as it’s a quiet Tuesday night, but upon sitting down and taking in my surroundings, I fully understand the bar’s appeal.
It’s a quirky one, full of fairy lights and Belfast memorabilia, not an empty wall in sight, it’s full of clocks, hanging mirrors and posters. The atmosphere is truly special, the bar buzzing with chatter and friendly faces all around. As I sip on my pink gin and tonic, there’s no doubt in my mind, that this is the perfect spot to end my first day in Belfast…
Day 2
Taxi Tour of the City with The Belfast Lad
After a good night’s sleep and a scrumptious breakfast at the Grand Central Hotel, I’m eager to see what the second day in Belfast will bring. Looking out the window, I’m quite lucky with the weather, the sun has decided to make an appearance and I’m in good spirits, ready to learn more about Belfast.
I’m picked up by the famous Belfast Lad (Francis Higgins) for a guided city tour, which means I will be spending the whole two hours learning about the good and the bad of the city.
Within the first few minutes of the tour, it’s very clear that Francis is an incredibly knowledgeable historian and author, having written books on The Troubles, and Belfast Shipyards. As I’m driving through some of the famous sights such as Stormont, Belfast Castle, the world-famous Peacewalls and Murals, as well as the Cathedral Quarter and the magnificent City Hall, one thing is certain. There is so much history in the city and Francis is the best person to tell it, having grown up during the Troubles.
No matter how dark the history gets, Francis assures there’s always light at the end of the tunnel. The times have really changed and the Troubles, while unforgotten, are being slowly but surely replaced with more peaceful, happier times.
Next Stop – McConnell’s Distillery
After an educational and incredibly fascinating city tour, the next stop is McConnell’s Distillery. While McConnell’s is not a new name in the whisky world, the distillery is a quite new venture, having opened in April of this year after its 12 million pound investment.
Stepping inside the building, located in the A-wing of Crumlin Road Goal, the distillery looks very impressive. As we’re greeted by our tour guide, I manage to get a quick glimpse around and notice that what used to be prison cells, are now turned into whisky-tasting spaces as well as staff rooms, without losing the authenticity that comes along with this Victorian grade A listed building.
On our whisky-tasting tour, I get to sample and try some of McConnell’s products and as someone who rarely reaches for brown liquors, I have to admit that some of it does, in fact, appeal to me.
However, my curiosity is at its peak as our tour guide tells us all about the process of whisky making and the long history of it in Belfast. McConnell’s Irish Whisky actively distils its own special brand around the clock and offers tours for those, who like me, are newbies to the whisky world, and those, who know a thing or two about it.
We finish the tour with a mention of the supernatural occurrences that have taken place in the building, setting the mood for the next adventure. But before that, a quick lunch!
A Quick Bite at Cuff’s Bar and Grill
Just a short walk from the McConnells’ Distillery, I arrive at Cuff’s Bar and Grill, a cosy and warm restaurant, perfect for a bite in between my busy schedule. It might be lunchtime, but it’s always wine o’clock when on a little city break, so it’s a glass of white Pinot Grigio for me and Pan Seared Teriyaki Salmon with rice, tenderstem broccoli and tiger prawns (£15.95).
My food arrives in what feels like minutes and it tastes just as good as it looks. Fully aware that one can never go wrong with salmon, this time, it’s better than ever before. The taste of teriyaki works heavenly with salmon as it gives some sweetness to it, not to mention the tiger prawns that are simply to die for.
Besides the lovely food, the portions at Cuff’s Bar and Grill are quite large, so if you’re there for your lunch break, you might want to skip the starters and desserts, as tempting as they sound.
A Spooky Visit to Crumlin Road Goal
A self-guided tour through the Crumlin Road Goal is the perfect experience for those who enjoy history and are not afraid of the spooky spirits you might encounter on the way. Me? I am a fan of both and after picking up my ticket, I am eager to follow in the footsteps of over 25,000 prisoners who had the displeasure of staying here.
Our tour starts in a rather old and dark room, where doors are opening automatically, revealing large digital screens and actors in them, telling about what it was like to be a prisoner at Crumlin Road Goal. I would be lying if I said the automatic doors did not make me jump a few times, my heart racing.
As the tour takes us through the tunnel, which led prisoners from the building to the Courthouse across the street, the historic holding cells, the goal circle, the condemned cell and the hangman’s cell, I realise that one could easily spend the whole day here, exploring walls filled with so much history, all of which, invite guests to take a look around and breathe in the past.
Sadly, no ghosts this time for me, but with creative holograms and jump scares throughout the prison, I think my heart would not have had the capacity to take it.
Luxury Shopping Experience at the Queen’s Arcade and Victoria Square
My city break in Belfast would not be complete without a luxury shopping experience. The Queen’s Arcade is the first stop, situated in the heart of the city centre and carrying the most esteemed brands such as Omega, Montblanc, Rolex, Lunn’s, Tag Heuer, Breitling, Gucci, Tudor and more.
If there is one thing that can be said about the Queen’s Arcade is that it has something for everyone. Whether you’re looking for a gift, a way to surprise your loved one with a fresh bouquet, or are simply treating yourself, the staff at each of the boutique stores are extremely knowledgeable and more than happy to help you find what you need.
It’s a highly Instagrammable location, full of crème de la crème products.
Next up is Victoria’s Square, for those, who wish to have more options at hand. A very futuristic shopping centre, it reminds me of the Mall of Berlin, and immediately my heart is full of happy memories.
Crowned as Northern Ireland’s number-one shopping destination, it’s spread over four floors with plenty to offer. Seeing a familiar name in the distance, I head towards Flannels, where time escapes me and I end up spending over an hour there, appreciating the luxuries around me, before I decide to pick up something for myself (it’s the YSL card holder!).
Dinner at Cafè Parisien
While so far it has been a long day, I am still mesmerised by everything I have seen so far. It’s safe to say I have fallen in love with Belfast and its people and I know that tomorrow will be a hard goodbye.
But until then, dinner awaits! After a quick shower and retouching of my make-up, we’re on foot to Cafè Parisien, located just a short walk from the Grand Central Hotel. Inside, the restaurant looks truly magnificent and without even taking a seat yet, I know this is the perfect way to end my city break in Belfast.
We get their best table, overlooking the City Hall, and I’m eager to see what the menu will offer. As for now, it’s pleasant conversation while sipping on some gorgeous white, sharing the day that has passed. And what a day it was!
The Menu at Cafè Parisien
For starters, I opt for Seared Scallops with parma ham, fennel, watercress and herb oil (£12.50) and once it arrives, it’s unbelievably delicious. My scallops are perfectly sizzled, adding a slight crunch to them, that pairs incredibly well with parma ham. It’s a real treat for the senses.
For the main, it’s a no-brainer. Sweet Cured Grilled Pork Chop with mustard veloutè, green beans, fennels and watercress salad (£28). My instincts were right and the pork chop melts in my mouth upon the first bite. The sweetness of it is a welcome addition, but looking at the size of it in front of me, I know that unfortunately, I will not be able to finish it. But what I do manage is oh-so delicious!
There’s no room for dessert, but there certainly is some energy left in me to go for impromptu drinks (soft ones, no more wine for me!) at Europa – the most bombed hotel in Belfast.
Drinks at Europa? Yes, please!
Not a part of our itinerary, but simply a must-visit even for just an hour or so, is the Hotel Europa. Some of the most esteemed guests of Europa include Bill Clinton, Kurt Cobain, Elton John, Dalai Lama, Lionel Richie and that’s not all!
And now, here I am, sitting in their bar area, sipping on my Coca-Cola. It’s truly a magical place and a testament to the spirit of Belfast. Standing tall and proud, despite its history as the most bombed hotel.
A City Break to Remember
As the day comes to a close, on my comfy sheets, I fall asleep thinking about my wonderful few days in Belfast. The city has surprised me in ways I didn’t expect, and with direct flights from Newcastle, it’s never been easier to simply hop on board and explore the beauty next to us.
It’s Thursday morning, I pack my bags, enjoy a full English breakfast, a sip of my cappuccino, hop in the taxi and say goodbye to my city break in Belfast. It’s raining and I can’t help but think how lucky I was to experience Northern Ireland in the sunshine, and how unforgettable this trip was.
I know I will come back here again, as beyond these attractions, there’s still so much the city has to offer. I hear it’s pretty magical during Christmastime too… Until then!
Getting There
Aer Lingus Regional operates flights between Newcastle and Belfast, 6 days per week. With fares starting at £39.99, passengers can book tickets now at aerlingus.com.
For inspiration, and more information on visiting Belfast, please visit their website visitbelfast.com.
For Luxe Foodies…
If you’re restaurant-hopping in Belfast this summer, here are a few additional places that will satisfy every foodie’s taste buds…
Ox
Ox is a Michelin-star restaurant serving seasonal dishes, perfect if you’re looking to grab lunch. Their 3-course lunchtime menu is £55, and their summer tasting menu is £90.
Mr Deanes
Mr Deanes is a newly-opened restaurant, offering exceptional quality food. Think Chicken Francese, Scallops á la Plancha and more. Prices for mains range from £16 to £38.
Muddlers Club
If you’re looking for modern Michelin-star dining in a relaxed space, Muddlers Club is the place to go. Their open kitchen will allow you to watch their chefs prepare the food right in front of you, and their tasting menu is priced at £90.
Waterman Bistro and Cookery School
Looking for a taste of Europe? Then head to Waterman Bistro and Cookery School for their local and seasonal menu, which will not disappoint. Their A La Carte mains range from £15 to £28, and their 3-course menu is £23.50.
