FOOD REVIEW: The Glass House at Wynyard Hall

It might still be a little bit chilly out there, but The Glass House at Wynyard Hall provides a warm horticultural dining experience as Matthew Thomas discovers...
Glass House Wynyard Hall

As Brexit food shortages still occasionally interrupt our supermarket shopping, suspect food packaging trundles freely off the back of lorries, and the population becomes increasingly aware of food miles, The Glass House has found the answer to an increasingly volatile food market.

Ten feet away from the front door of Wynyard Hall’s new dining experience, The Glass House, lies a botanical treasure trove of northern horticulture.

A vivid, flourishing garden and arboretum that is teeming with indigenous plants, vegetable rows and wild herbs, this garden is the nucleus behind The Glass House’s authentic menu.

And, as the candlelight flickers in this ambient setting, this nucleus is straight on show as our evening’s dining experience flies out of the traps with three small, sharing plates.

The mixed bean, cherry tomato and thyme bruschetta provides a refreshing start, yet it’s the garden beetroot hummus with warm chunks of pita and the cauliflower and spinach fritters, bound with cumin and minted yoghurt, that really stand out.

Rooted in authenticity and blooming with vivid flavours, the dish’s earthy notes hark back to the venue’s main aim; to create a true plot to plate dining experience. It’s a taste that embodies a sense of patience, love and dedication – the main qualities needed for any horticulturist.

For the main event, thick layers of fettuccine arrive with a smattering of garlic wilted tender stem broccoli, roasted artichoke and a sprinkling of toasted almonds.

Alongside this, a bowl of sweet roasted hispi cabbage and chickpea curry topped with a dash of coriander steams away.

Both plates provide a visual feast for the eyes with abounding colours. The smoothness of the handmade pasta complements the grittiness of the almonds, and the sweetness of the hispi cabbage enables the curry to remain light and refreshing.

A deep, dark-roasted flat white signals the arrival of rosemary panna cotta and infused rhubarb. The fragrant rosemary and blanched rhubarb elements are outstanding and, after an eclectic selection of dishes that has gone before, is duly hoovered up.

In terms of ambience and decor, as you’d expect, The Glass House is a grand design that exudes class and grandeur.

Offering a contemporary feel with subtle nods to Wynard’s architectural splendour, The Glass House is a modern space furnished with warm oak furnishings, a statement stone floor and ambient lighting.

Paired with earthy tones, the funky pastel-blue cutlery reminds us that, although this is a venue steeped in heritage, the food on offer is modern, playful and exciting.

The Glass House at Wynyard Hall is a serene spot. A space that transcends the traditional, buzzy restaurant atmosphere into a calming oasis of tranquillity and glorious garden food.

It’s a place rooted in locality, evergreen during winter and set to flourish in the spring and summer months. Make sure you add it to your foodie to-do list this season – you won’t regret it. A real luxe treat.


wynyardhall.co.uk

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