September marked the start of wood pigeon season – and it’s perfect for a fall feast, says Chadwicks Inn Maltby’s head chef, Steve Lawford. The restaurant’s expert sommelier, Lee Tolley talks us through some fabulous French reds to accompany the dish.
Yorkshire Wood Pigeon, Doreen’s Black Pudding, Black Garlic & Parsley
4 x pigeon (ask your butcher for oven ready pigeon)
400g x Doreen’s black pudding
1 x bulb black garlic
2 x bunches parsley 1l x olive pomace oil 6 x eggs
1tsp x mustard
50g x plain flour 30g x breadcrumbs
For the black garlic mayonnaise – separate four egg yolks into a food processor, add a teaspoon of mustard and the peeled black garlic. Blitz while slowly pouring in 200ml of pomace oil. Season with table salt.
For the parsley oil – blanch one bunch of parsley in boiling water with salt and bicarbonate of soda. Drain, then add the blanched and fresh parsley to a food processor.
Blitz whilst slowing pouring in 500ml of pomace oil. Pass through a fine sieve.
Cut the black pudding into cubes. To coat – toss in the flour, then beaten egg and finally breadcrumbs.
To cook the pigeon – pan fry on the crown then, with breasts facing up, put them in the oven for four minutes at 190°C.
Remove from oven and rest for five minutes.
Fry the black pudding until golden brown.
Once the pigeon is rested, carefully remove the breasts from the crown, season the underside and present with the black pudding and black garlic mayonnaise.
Finish with the parsley oil and a few fresh parsley leaves. Enjoy!
ROBUST REDS >>
Volnay (Louis Jadot), Beaune, France 2008
(100% Pinot Noir) 13% ABV
The house of Maison Louis Jadot own over 60 hectares of vineyards and was founded in 1859. Like the wine above, it is also 100% Pinot Noir Burgundy but eight years younger. It presents the same fruit such as red berries, redcurrants and raspberries, but these fruits are more prominent than the previous wine due to it being younger.
This wine also shows characters that you would expect from an ageing wine such as vegetal flavours. The wine still has potential to age further but is drinking fantastically well as it is at the moment.
A quality red Burgundy.
Corton Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Latour), Burgundy, France 2000
(100% Pinot Noir) 14% ABV
The creation of Maison Louis Latour dates back to 1797, just eight years after the French revolution. This 19 year old Burgundy has some fruit notes such as red berries and raspberries.
These fruit notes have mellowed with age and made way for the aged flavours such wet and dry autumn leaves and vegetal flavours.
A perfectly balanced wine with great length. Well worth waiting 19 years for.
Pauillac (Château Pontet-Canet), Bordeaux, France 2001
(Bordeaux Blend – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Franc) 13% ABV
From the north of the village of Pauillac, we have a wine from a vineyard that was established back in 1705.
This top quality Bordeaux offers up rich, ripened dark summer fruits such as blackberries, with notes of black pepper and tobacco also coming through.
A superb example of Pauillac.